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Whinyard Rocks: Cultivating a Quiet Revolution on a Welsh Hillside
In the rolling landscapes of Mid-Wales, where the Radnor Forest meets sweeping skies and ancient stone, a new story of Welsh wine is being written. It’s a tale of leaving behind city life, of deep-rooted family heritage, and of nurturing vines in harmony with the land. At the heart of this transformation is Whinyard Rocks Vineyard in New Radnor, Powys — a pioneering estate that is redefining what it means to make wine in Wales.
From London Lives to a Hillside Dream
Susan and James’s journey began far from the vineyard rows. Both were carving out careers in London — James as a scientist, Susan working at a sustainable food and drink startup. Their lives were fast-paced, urban, and rewarding, but something was missing. When the chance arose to return to James’s family farm in Mid-Wales, where his family had worked the land since the 1910s, they made a bold decision: to turn an idea — a “wild dream,” as they call it — into reality.
In 2017, they planted their first half-acre of vines on a hillside once reserved for sheep. It was an experiment, a test of both land and resilience. Yet that small step quickly grew into a full leap: leaving behind city comforts and embracing a life shaped by soil, weather, and vines.
A Name Written in Stone
Every vineyard name tells a story, but Whinyard Rocks’s story is literally etched in the landscape. The vineyard is named after a distinctive outcrop of exposed late Silurian rock on the farm, a Site of Special Scientific Interest that overlooks their vines.
This geological landmark isn’t just a striking feature; it’s a symbol of the connection Susan and James feel to their land. Their vineyard is rooted not just in soil, but in history, biodiversity, and a sense of place. “Whinyard Rocks” captures both the rugged beauty of their environment and the strength of their philosophy: to work with nature, not against it.
A Philosophy Rooted in Regeneration
At Whinyard Rocks, winemaking isn’t about chasing uniformity or following tradition for its own sake. Instead, it’s about respecting the land and letting the vineyard’s unique conditions shine through. Their approach is one of low intervention — often called “natural winemaking” — which means:
- Grapes are grown regeneratively, using methods that improve soil health and enhance biodiversity.
- No synthetic chemicals are used in either vineyard or winery.
- Fermentation relies on indigenous wild yeasts, capturing a truer expression of the fruit and the hillside.
- Their wines contain no added sulphur and are neither fined nor filtered, ensuring purity and authenticity in every bottle.
This is wine at its most elemental: grapes, yeast, time, and care. Nothing more.
Such an ethos places Whinyard Rocks at the heart of a broader Welsh movement towards sustainability. Across the country, vineyards are embracing hybrid grape varieties, regenerative farming, and eco-conscious practices — not as marketing buzzwords, but as practical responses to Wales’s unique climate and future challenges.
Grapes that Brave the Welsh Hills
Vineyards thrive when grape varieties are carefully matched to their environment. At Whinyard Rocks, this has meant trial, research, and a bit of serendipity.
Since 2017, they’ve planted over 6,000 vines across three acres of free-draining loam, at an elevation of 236 metres (774 feet). Their chosen mix reflects both resilience and flavour potential:
- Hybrids like Solaris, Phoenix, and Muscaris — hardy, disease-resistant, and perfectly suited to cool Welsh conditions. Solaris ripens early and brings notes of tropical fruit; Phoenix offers a Muscat-like aroma with elderflower and herbs.
- Ortega and Bacchus — non-hybrids that bring aromatic charm; Ortega, they admit with a smile, was planted “by accident.”
- Red hybrids Rondo and Regent — reliable performers in northern climates, producing deeply coloured, berry-rich wines.
- Cabernet Noir and Pinot Noir Précoce, added in 2023, push the boundaries further, opening possibilities for new expressions of Welsh red wine.
Harvest begins in September with Solaris and stretches to the edge of October, when frosts threaten. Winter is devoted to pruning — “the most important part of the year,” James explains, as it shapes not just the coming season but the next two years of growth and yield.
More Than a Vineyard: A Family Affair
The vineyard is only one piece of the story. Whinyard Rocks is a reflection of Susan and James’s combined passions. James brings a scientist’s precision and what Susan describes as “a thirst for making everything from scratch,” while Susan herself adds creativity, colour, and a passion for food provenance. Together, they’ve created not just a vineyard, but a home and a hospitality experience that welcomes others into their world.
In 2020, they transformed Highbrook Cottage, a stone-built property on the farm, into a boutique holiday let. Today, it offers visitors a stylish yet cosy retreat, “a warm hug of hospitality” in the words of past guests. For travellers exploring the Radnor Forest foothills, it provides the perfect base — and for vineyard visitors, it’s a chance to immerse themselves in the lifestyle that shapes Whinyard Rocks.
The First Wines: A Family Toast
Though their vines were first planted in 2017, it wasn’t until 2020 that Susan and James harvested their first grapes. Even then, patience was required: their wines spent two more years in careful production before release.
The debut came in 2022 with two distinctive bottles: a blush-orange Pet Nat (pétillant naturel) and a sparkling Col Fondo. Both reflected their natural, low-intervention ethos and offered something distinctly different for the Welsh wine scene.
As is common in Wales, their grapes were pressed and bottled “down the road” in Herefordshire, where most Welsh vineyards send fruit for processing. But the first uncorking took place closer to home, around their family Christmas table — a fitting way to mark five years of labour, learning, and love.
Part of a Welsh Wine Revolution
Whinyard Rocks may be rooted in one hillside, but it is part of a far wider story. Welsh viticulture is expanding rapidly, with more than 50 vineyards now in operation — a leap from just 30 in 2022. Backed by a government-supported drinks cluster, the industry has set its sights on growing tenfold, aiming for a value of £100 million by 2035.
What sets Wales apart is not scale, but spirit. Like New Zealand before it, Welsh wine benefits from being an outsider — free from rigid traditions and regulations. This allows for experimentation with hybrid grapes, regenerative farming, and bold winemaking choices. Some producers are exploring low-alcohol wines, while others pair their bottles with Welsh culinary heritage to carve a niche in fine dining.
Whinyard Rocks embodies this freedom. By embracing natural winemaking, championing biodiversity, and welcoming visitors with genuine hospitality, Susan and James are helping shape not just their own future, but that of Welsh wine as a whole.
A Taste of the Future
From their first tentative half-acre to today’s thriving vineyard, Whinyard Rocks is a story of courage, care, and conviction. It’s proof that Welsh wine can be distinctive, sustainable, and deeply rooted in place — and that passion, when given the right soil, can flourish into something extraordinary.
For visitors, Whinyard Rocks offers more than a glass of wine: it’s an invitation to experience a lifestyle that blends innovation with tradition, and hospitality with heartfelt connection.
Whether you’re raising a glass of their Pet Nat, staying at Highbrook Cottage, or simply following their journey online, Whinyard Rocks is cultivating more than vines on a Welsh hillside. They’re cultivating a revolution — quiet, but growing louder with every vintage.
Stay, Sip, and Experience Whinyard Rocks
To truly immerse yourself in the Whinyard Rocks experience, visitors are invited to stay at Highbrook Cottage, the vineyard’s lovingly renovated self-catering retreat. Open year-round, the cottage is the perfect base for exploring the Radnor Forest foothills, with its sweeping views and walking trails. Stylish yet homely, it reflects the same ethos that defines the vineyard: warmth, authenticity, and a deep connection to place. Whether you’re sampling a glass of their natural wine or simply unwinding in front of the fire, a stay here offers a unique way to experience the heart of Welsh wine country.
For more about their wines, their story, and how to plan your visit, explore Whinyard Rocks Vineyard’s website.
