The Unstoppable Current of Aber Falls Distillery

Rhaeadr Fawr a’r Wisgi: The Unstoppable Current of Aber Falls Distillery.

A Story of Place, Pride, and the Pursuit of Perfection in North Wales

In the quiet, picturesque village of Abergwyngregyn, tucked between the ancient Snowdonia mountains and the sweeping tide of the Menai Strait, a modern Welsh epic is being written. This is the heartland of Aber Falls Distillery, a name synonymous with the revival of Wisgi Cymreig (Welsh whisky).

The distillery sits literally “a stone’s throw away” from Rhaeadr Fawr—the famous Aber Falls waterfall—from which it takes its name and its life-blood. More than just a manufacturing facility, Aber Falls is a nexus of local pride, technological innovation, and a powerful vision to establish Wales as a formidable force in the global spirits industry.

This is the story of how one company, starting with a clean slate in 2017, fought fiercely for its Welsh identity, spurred remarkable economic growth, and proved that the purest spirit of a nation can flow from its rock-filtered water and local soil.

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The Terroir of Transformation

To understand Aber Falls whisky, you must first understand its geography. The distillery’s unique character is inextricably linked to its remote microclimate.

The location, nestled where the Afon Goch plummets from the Carneddau mountains, provides the essential ingredients for distillation. The rock-filtered water is drawn directly from the Aber Falls waterfall and the Snowdonia mountains, ensuring both purity and provenance.

General Manager Carole Jones emphasizes the unparalleled natural advantage of their setting: “Our unique setting in the foothills of the Snowdonia mountains and the Menai Straight also offers a remote microclimate, creating the ideal conditions to influence the character of the whisky – it’s unlike any other in the world”.

This coastal terroir is a real asset. The warehouses, situated near the Menai Straits, benefit from a unique environmental advantage. The beneficial sea breeze helps maintain a consistent temperature, while the generally low humidity encourages water evaporation rather than alcohol evaporation—a key factor in shaping the maturing spirit.

A Heritage Reborn

The physical structure of the distillery itself tells a story of transformation. The building has been lovingly restored and refurbished, giving new life to a site with a deep industrial past. It was originally a 19th-century slate works and later served as a margarine factory during the World Wars. More recently, before Aber Falls took residence in 2017, it functioned as a drinks warehouse for Halewood International (now Halewood Artisanal Spirits).

When founders became intent on establishing a Welsh brand in 2014, the search for the perfect site led them back to Abergwyngregyn. Sam Foster, Distillery Manager, captures the powerful emotional connection to this place: “You’ve got the mountain range behind you, the Menai Strait in front. It doesn’t feel like you come to work when you come to work in a place like this”. Foster, born and raised in North Wales, is part of a young, passionate team that has taken the reins in this revival.

Aber Falls commenced production in late 2017, becoming the first whisky distillery in North Wales in over 100 years.

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The Fight for Authenticity: 100% Welsh, Through and Through

The team at Aber Falls operates with a fierce dedication to authenticity. Their aim is simple, yet ambitious: to ensure that their whisky is 100% Welsh and sustainable.

This commitment starts with the source of the grain. Aber Falls is the only distillery in the country to use 100% Welsh malted barley. They use the malted Laureate variety, sourced from a farm in Pembrokeshire. This choice, as detailed by MD James Wright, comes at a higher cost than simply sourcing grain elsewhere, but it is vital for achieving a distinct sense of identity. The nutrients and nitrogen levels in the local crop, which differ from other regions, directly impact the amount of starch and sugars available, thereby influencing the outcome of the whisky.

This focus on Welsh grain is designed to drive the local economy and encourage the increased growth of barley across North Wales. The distillery even works closely with Bangor University’s grain research centre to study different malted barley profiles and enhance long-term yield potential.

The GI Victory and the Move Home

The most definitive proof of Aber Falls’ dedication to its Welsh roots came with the national fight for legal protection.

In 2023, Aber Falls celebrated the official granting of the Welsh Single Malt Geographical Indication (GI) status. This recognized Welsh whiskies nationally and internationally as a quality product with a distinct style. Achieving this GI required strict compliance with legally set criteria.

Crucially, the criteria demanded that Welsh whisky must:

• Be made using 100% Welsh malted barley.
• Use water of 100% Welsh origin.
• Be produced in Wales at all stages from brewing to bottling.

The journey to compliance was not without drama. Before the GI was secured, Aber Falls faced international attention, including a feature in the New York Times, due to a failed initial certification test because the bottling was taking place in England. To adhere to the “bottled in Wales” rule, Halewood Artisanal Spirits (the owner) swiftly moved the bottling process back to Wales, allowing the product to be authentically branded Welsh.

As Carole Jones observed, while most people think immediately of Scotland or Ireland, Aber Falls is actively “trying to build the Welsh whisky category”.

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The Alchemist’s Workshop: Freedom in Craftsmanship

In contrast to highly regulated traditions like Scotch whisky, this “new-wave Welsh whisky” enjoys the freedom of innovation and experimentation. As Distillery Manager Sam Foster put it, working with a blank canvas allows them to “create your own way, based on what you believe in”.

The production process, though following standard single malt steps (malting, milling, mashing, fermentation, double distillation), incorporates several distinctive methods:

1. Fermentation: Aber Falls uses long fermentation periods, lasting 72 to 90 hours, conducted in large 5,000-litre stainless steel wash-backs. The team extensively experiments with varying wash back temperatures and different yeast strains to achieve the best possible quality and consistency.
2. Distillation: The spirit is distilled in two copper pot stills manufactured by Macmillan: a 6,500-litre wash still named Golchi and a 3,600-litre spirit still named Gwirod. The copper stills remove sulphur and aid in the formation of esters, contributing to a refined, fruity character.
3. Condensers: Uniquely, Aber Falls utilizes both stainless steel and copper condensers, giving distillers greater control over the flavor profile. Foster explains that copper is used to produce “light, fruity, creamy notes,” while stainless steel is employed for “heavier, ‘meatier’ spirits”. This flexibility allows the team to “play around with them and create different expressions”.

The Cask Evolution

The maturation process further exemplifies this spirit of innovation. While the whisky must be aged for a minimum of three years and one day, the choice of wood is expansive, utilizing the flexibility afforded by Welsh whisky laws.

The distillers select a wide range of specially selected wood barrels, including American Oak Bourbon, Virgin Oak, and Spanish Sherry, such as Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez (PX). These casks, stored at the distillery near the Menai Straits, take on the characteristics of the coastal air.

For limited and experimental editions, Aber Falls pushes the boundaries using casks that previously held:

• Pedro Ximénez sherry.
• Sauternes dessert wine.
• A unique orange liqueur or orange wine.

Future plans include two highly anticipated special releases: one finished in a luscious Vin Santo (an Italian dessert wine) cask, expected to feature notes of intense toasted hazelnut, caramel, dried tropical fruits, cinnamon, ginger, and treacle; and another finished in an ex-Calvados cask, brimming with freshly baked apple and pear, butterscotch, custard cream, burnt sugar, and cinnamon.

These diverse approaches, as Foster notes, ensure the distillery maintains its set Single Malt expression alongside “a load of funky casks”.

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The Tides of Prosperity: Expansion and Sustainability

The proof of Aber Falls’ success is reflected in its rapid growth since the launch of its inaugural single malt whisky in 2021. That first release was a near instant legend, selling out in a remarkable 40 minutes. The subsequent Autumn 2021 Release was also highly popular.

This phenomenal demand, particularly from the export market, necessitated a significant expansion. Work began in October 2022, and thanks to an extremely swift completion and HMRC approval on February 10, 2023, Aber Falls was able to commence 24-hour production.

The development included installing new storage tanks and adding more washbacks to increase the overall yield. Distillery Manager Sam Foster shared his amazement at the scale: “We’ve been going from three mashes, to five, to seven…” and are now at a total of 24 to 28 mashes per week. The increased capacity means Aber Falls is expecting to produce around 500,000 litres of spirit per annum. Foster admitted that these production volumes “baffle my mind”.

The expansion project also served as a welcome boost to the local economy, creating eight new job opportunities, including six Distillery Operatives to run the 24-hour shift, and two additional roles at the cask warehouse. This adds to a team that has grown from just five employees in February 2018 to 35 staff, with more expected to join soon.

The Field to Field Ethos

Beyond maximizing output, Aber Falls is driven by a strong ethos of community and sustainability, aiming to “put in as much as it takes out”. This philosophy is visible in its innovative, closed-loop system known as ‘field to field’.

Instead of wasting by-products, the distillery ensures they benefit the local agricultural community:

• The spent grain (draff) from the mash tun is collected and given straight back to local farms to be used as cattle feed.
• The waste pot ale is also given to local farms for use as fertilizer.

The team is continuously investigating ways to reduce emissions, exploring alternative burn fuel for the boiler, and looking into anaerobic digestion of pot ale and spent lees, demonstrating that sustainability is a continuous process. Furthermore, the distillery reinforces its ties to the community by supporting local businesses; the on-site café and shop are stocked with local Welsh produce from neighboring suppliers.

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Tasting the Spirit of North Wales

The Aber Falls Single Malt Welsh Whisky, aged for a minimum of three years and one day in casks stored near the Menai Straits, has received positive international attention, proving the distillery’s future potential. One reviewer deemed it a “great drop for the price” (around $38 US or AUD $59).

The flagship Single Malt expression is noted for its fantastic quality, approachable nature, and smooth profile.

Tasting Notes (40% ABV):

Profile Element	Description	Supporting Notes from Reviewers
Nose	Approachable aromas of delicate citrus, marmalade, chamomile florals, creamy vanilla, rich toasted hazelnuts, and chocolate.	Also hints of coffee fudge, sourdough, dates, and an almost funky, rummy tropical fruit note.
Palate	Smooth with a pleasant weight, malted cereal notes join lemon curd and candied orange with vanilla, honey, and sweet tobacco spice.	Features vibrant orange citrus elements, darker fruits, slick honey, espresso, and creamy/nutty notes (like Kinder bars).
Finish	Tobacco spice continues, adding a grippy texture along with a luscious, lingering oiliness.	Drier and spicier finish with nuttiness and salinity, blackcurrant, and ginger snaps. Also noted are chocolate and espresso notes.

While some might detect “tell-tale signs of young whisky”, the careful selection of casks—including Oloroso, PX, Bourbon, and Virgin Oak—adds significant flavor and depth, demonstrating a strong new make spirit with a delicate, fruity, and versatile profile.

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The Invitation: Visiting the Heart of the Distillery

Aber Falls is much more than a distillery; it is a major North Wales tourism destination, attracting over 50,000 visitors a year. Visitors are often “mind blown” when they see the scale and complexity of the operation.

The site features a multipurpose visitor centre where guests can book:

• Distillery Tours: Visitors can get “right to the heart… of the process,” seeing distillation in action and feeling the heat off the stills. Tours run approximately 40 minutes, typically from Thursday to Sunday, 12 to 4 PM.
• Gin Lab Experiences: Offering a quirky day out where visitors can make their own gin.

The on-site experience is comprehensive: there is a café where people can sit alongside the river, and a shop where they can purchase the award-winning Single Malt, as well as Aber Falls’ premium range of gins and liqueurs.

For those unable to visit the Abergwyngregyn site, Aber Falls also operates a kiosk on Llandudno Pier.

For the most ardent enthusiasts, the distillery previously offered a limited number of opportunities to buy a private cask of the single malt for £2,500, allowing members of the “slate club” to follow their own whisky on its maturation journey. To date, Aber Falls has filled over 9,000 casks.

The Unwavering Spirit

The successful expansion, the growth of the team (now employing 35 staff), and the hard-won GI status underline the distillery’s impact on the Welsh economy and its cultural landscape. As Master Blender Dr. Kirstie McCallum noted, Aber Falls has already “made a brilliant name for Welsh whisky,” reviving a tradition in North Wales after a century of silence.

Aber Falls is successfully navigating the space between respecting tradition and seizing the unique opportunity of making Welsh whisky without being bound by the rigid constraints of older regions. They are truly going beyond imitation to produce a spirit that is authentically Welsh—sourced, distilled, packaged, and sold within Welsh borders.

From the rock-filtered water of Rhaeadr Fawr to the sustainable grain farmed in Pembrokeshire, Aber Falls is ensuring that the unique spirit of North Wales flows freely to 40 countries across the world. This is more than just whisky; it is the taste of a region, bottled.

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To explore the award-winning spirits, book a tour, or secure a Gin Lab experience –